Collier and McKeel Tennessee Whiskey

It’s not easy going head to head with Jack Daniel’s and George Dickel. But that’s essentially what any product that calls itself Tennessee whiskey has to do, no matter how different the process, the batch size, the target audience, or the ratio of “done by hand” to “running on automatic.” The final stop on this year’s Thirsty South tour of the Tennessee whiskey trail was the newest distillery in the state (at least for the time being – there’s at least one more on the way next year), little Collier and McKeel. Collier and McKeel introduced their first products this year, and their flagship is a Tennessee whiskey. They also have a white dog, a cinnamon whiskey, and a vodka, but let’s focus on that Tennessee whiskey for now. Collier and McKeel is situated next to Corsair Artisan in Nashville’s Marathon Motor Works building, their startup home. They use a 570 gallon copper pot still made by Vendome, and just about everything (down to a thumbprint on each bottle) is done by hand. Given the small batch nature of their production, Collier and McKeel has been experimenting with the optimal barrel size and aging time to deliver the profile they’re looking for – a throwback to Tennessee whiskey of old. The barrels thus far have been tiny compared to what the big boys down in Lynchburg and Tullahoma are using, starting with 5 gallons and moving on up to 15 gallons. The smaller barrels provide a greater degree of interaction between the oak and the whiskey, given the greater ratio of barrel surface to whiskey volume. Now, as for being a “Tennessee whiskey,” Collier and McKeel does use sugar maple charcoal mellowing, just like the big boys. And they make their own charcoal, too. However, Collier and McKeel’s approach is a bit different, as they pump the new make whiskey up slowly through the charcoal, a few times, rather than using a gravity-driven drip process. The mash bill is a mix of corn, barley and rye, on the order of 70/15/15. And they use limestone filtered water, straight from the “family farm on Big Richland Creek,” making for a nice story of earth-to-bottle (not unlike the stories told by Jack Daniel’s and George Dickel, by the way). Collier and McKeel’s whiskey is available in Tennessee for now, but they hope to expand distribution in 2012, including Atlanta. If you happen upon a bottle, be sure to check it out and contrast it to the more commonly found Tennessee whiskeys. This little distillery certainly has the gumption to take on the establishment, and now it’s up to the whiskey to do the walking. Note: The Collier & McKeel distillery is not typically open for public tours, but send them a note to see if a private visit can be set up.

While you’re here, check out all the stops on our Tennessee whiskey tour.

Southern Comfort Pepper Tasting Notes: Maybe I’m Crazy

I’m a little bit ashamed to admit it, a little bit proud – I never had a SoCo phase in my youthful drinking days. This may seem remarkable for a boy who grew up in Memphis and now lives in Georgia, but I went from Bartles & Jaymes (did I just type that?) to Absolut to Jagermeister, then somehow, thankfully, latched onto good bourbon. So I tend to approach Southern Comfort with a blank slate (though a negative blank slate, as you’ll see a few paragraphs down). No seared-in-my-brain memories of frat parties gone bad. No happy memories of hanging out in the parking lot before a big game, though, either.

Now, Tabasco, that I am a fan of. They make a great product, or two. They sometimes make a good Super Bowl commercial. They have a wonderful history in Louisiana. But, while I’m known to douse quite a few things with Tabasco, whiskey is not one of them.

When I received a sample of Southern Comfort Fiery Pepper – I was extremely skeptical. Southern Comfort? I wouldn’t touch the stuff normally. Isn’t it basically whiskey flavored alcohol? Honestly, I’m still not sure exactly what Southern Comfort is. And Southern Comfort seems to like it that way. On the label they call this one “an original concoction” and that seems fitting. Actually, down further on the label, it reads, “liqueur and whiskey with natural flavors and caramel color.” Deliciously evasive. So, my best hope for this bottle was that it could be horrible in historic ways. Or the Tabasco could actually make the SoCo palatable. The truth is somewhere in the middle.

So, on to the tasting notes:

Southern Comfort Fiery Pepper
“An Original Concoction”
70 Proof
Approx. $15 Retail
Tasting Date: October 31, 2011

SoCo Pepper is a nice copper/amber in the glass. Swirl it around, then take a deep sniff. A heady dose of chili peppers hits your first, then a more vegetal green pepper note, then red hots, then … here’s where the “maybe I’m crazy” comes on strong… sweet grape soda. What!? It’s true. Try it. And once I smell that grape soda, that’s all I can get. Sugary grape soda, with some red hots sprinkled in. Not promising, is it?

When you take a sip, SoCo Pepper first hits as smooth and sweet, a bit of that sickly grape soda, then some Tabasco-ish heat comes on and carries through over layers of caramel popcorn and more grape soda into a long, mouth-tingling finish with flashes of cinnamon and more red hots. It’s remarkably smooth alcohol-wise. Well, maybe not so remarkably since it’s just 70 proof. The burn it does have comes across as more of a spice burn than a heat (alcohol) burn. And, you know what? I kinda like it. It’s weird as heck. It feels like I should be in the back parking lot of a pawn shop swigging it from a brown paper bag. But I kinda like it.

Fair, on the way to Good Stuff* (if you happen to be in the back parking lot of a pawn shop). This is crazy stuff, a ridiculous gimmick, a melding of Southern flavors high and low. And that’s why I like it.

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* Thirsty South Rating Scale:

Wow – among the very best: knock-your-socks-off, profound, complex liquid gold!
Excellent – exceptional in quality and character, worth seeking out, highly recommended
Good Stuff – solid expression of its type/varietal, enjoyable and recommended
Fair – fairly standard or exhibiting obvious though minor flaws
Avoid – move away folks, nothing to see here, a trainwreck

Full Disclosure: this bottle was provided as a tasting sample

Maker’s 46 Tasting Notes: I Like ‘Em Fat

I like ’em fat, I like ’em proud.
Ya gotta have a mother for me,
Now move your big a$$ round this way
So I can work on that zipper, baby.

Prince (inspired by James Brown)

I don’t throw around raunchy Prince lyrics lightly, but Maker’s 46 was shoutin’ out for something loud. Before we get heavy though, some background is in order…

Maker’s 46 debuted a bit over a year ago, and highlights a trend towards untraditional forms of aging and impacting the flavor of bourbon (see Woodford Reserve’s Maple Wood Finish as another prominent example). These spirits are not for purists or traditionalists, they intentionally tweak the straight bourbon approach to deliver something new. Maker’s Mark former president Bill Samuels called Maker’s 46 “a breakthrough in the contemporary craft of bourbon” with “innovative techniques never before employed.” So, yeah, not for folks who dig on tradition. The innovation? Taking regular old Maker’s Mark and re-barrelling it with seared French oak staves inside the barrel for a few extra months, imparting some amped up flavor and playing Jedi mind tricks with the whiskey inside. I can’t say that I’m a huge fan of regular old Maker’s Mark, finding it a bit flat and without enough spice to balance out the sweet, but I do think the injection of extra oak into the process alters and generally improves it in a noticeable way.

So, on to the tasting notes and a little Prince:

Maker’s 46
“Bourbon Whisky Barrel-Finished with Oak Staves”
94 Proof
Approx. $35-$40 Retail
Tasting Date: October 25, 2011

Maker’s 46 pours a bright honey amber in the glass, possibly a touch darker than regular Maker’s Mark, but still not dark. The aroma is full of warm toasty oak, butterscotch and caramel, with a crusty, bread-like wheat undertone. Nothing crazy, it’s a bigger, stronger brother of regular Maker’s Mark. It’s on the tongue that 46 gets FAT and the nasty Prince groove comes into play. It’s luscious, round and chewy. Maybe Sir Mix-a-Lot would be more appropriate. Vanilla, caramel, and more slightly buttery toast coats the tongue. There’s a nice, welcome cinnamon spice that kicks in on the back that starts to balance things out, to give it some sass. The chewiness continues on through the finish, with an almost cabernet-like woody tannin pucker coming in at points and lingering on the tongue. So, while many may dig on this sexy MF, I must admit that it’s not quite up my alley. Too much chunky chew, not enough depth or elegance. I guess I don’t like ’em fat, after all.

(Not quite) Good Stuff* – better than it’s little brother, but far from a good value at $35 plus. If you like ’em fat, though, this may be for you.

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* Thirsty South Rating Scale:

Wow – among the very best: knock-your-socks-off, profound, complex liquid gold!
Excellent – exceptional in quality and character, worth seeking out, highly recommended
Good Stuff – solid expression of its type/varietal, enjoyable and recommended
Fair – fairly standard or exhibiting obvious though minor flaws
Avoid – move away folks, nothing to see here, a trainwreck

Full Disclosure: this bottle was provided as a tasting sample

A Clever Morning Ritual

Clever Dripper, Boiling Water, Hario Mini Mill, Good Beans

There is something magical in moving an everyday act from a rushed job into a ritual. Coffee is the kind of thing most people want to get to as quickly as possible. Pop in a pod. Push a button. Or, better yet, pull up to a drive-through and have them hand over the completed cup. While I’m no aficionado, but I do prefer something slightly more labor intensive, not to mention cost effective. At home, I’ve been using either a French press or a semi-automatic espresso machine with pretty good, but definitely not optimal, results. But I knew it was time for a change. Time to ramp up the ritual in my coffee making.

Variations on the pourover/drip/Chemex cup of coffee are popping up at a lot of the more progressive coffee shops here in Atlanta and in other cities, which is kinda funny since it is a bit of a step back to more simpler methods. Of course, everything comes down to attention to detail – what type of filter, how fine a grind, how hot the water, grams of coffee to ounces of water, etc. – but it’s nice to see the focus on the ingredients and method rather than technology per se. The Clever Coffee Dripper ($20 on Amazon) manages to be fairly innovative and very basic all at once. It’s a conical drip cup that requires a filter, but it also has a mechanism that holds the water in the cone until you’re ready to let it drip on through. So it’s basically a combo drip/French press.  I recently bought one and have been enjoying playing it with – it makes a great cup of coffee, one cup at a time. The combination of steeping in the cone and dripping through the filter manages to produce a cup that’s both deep and “clean” at once. It’s definitely not as “muddy” as a French press cup, and definitely more nuanced than a basic drip. I personally find that it works best with brighter coffees that have a nice acidic edge rather than deep, dark roasts. But to each his own. I’ve posted some basic instructions below, but the fun in this is playing around with the different steps and variables until you find what suits you best.

Also, when I ordered the Clever, I knew I had to step up to a better grinder. My espresso machine has a built-in burr grinder, but I can’t really use that outside the machine. I knew I wanted quality, but wasn’t ready to drop a couple hundred bucks. My solution? The generally lauded Hario Mini Mill ($30 on Amazon) burr grinder from Japan. It’s compact. It’s manual. The instructions are only in Japanese, which makes for an intriguing challenge. And, yes, you actually are hand grinding your beans each morning, which is a nice little workout and a good reminder of the work that goes into a great cup of coffee. Check out a comparison of the same beans ground in the Hario (on the left) and in a Cuisinart blade coffee grinder (on the right). The Hario produces a more consistent grind. The color is even substantially different – I’m guessing because the Cuisinart just hacks away from the outside rather than actually crushing the bean through a grinder. Pros say it makes a world of difference, and I definitely prefer the Hario grind to the Cuisinart. In any case, the Clever + Hario + good freshly roasted beans combo is a great way to get started on your own morning coffee ritual. Some basic instructions below the photo…

(Thanks to Bold Bean Coffee Roasters for posting the basis for these instructions, which I have plagiarized heavily since I liked them so much!) 

What you’ll need:

Scale, grinder (preferably burr grinder), coffee, filtered water, timer or watch, water kettle or other heating method, Clever coffee dripper, stirring spoon, coffee cup.

Preheat and rinse filter – Get your water boiling, insert a filter into the Clever, then fill Clever within one inch of the top with water just off the boil. Let sit for five or so seconds and then place the Clever on top of your coffee mug and let the water drain into the mug. Keep the hot water in the mug until you are ready to let the coffee drip on in.

Grind – Grind your coffee as close to brewing time as possible. The Hario, if you’re using that, will take a minute or so for once cup’s worth. I like to do this after the rinse. Start with 2 grams of coffee for every ounce of water. I tend to go with a 10 oz cup, so that means 20 grams or about two and a half rounded tablespoons of beans. I’ve heard some folks say to use up to 30 grams for that amount, but I don’t see a need to use that much. The coffee needs to be ground to a medium grind, about the same as for an automatic drip coffee machine. You can play both with the amount of coffee and the fineness of the grind, so these are just starting points.

Water – To ensure great results you need to use filtered water heated to about 200 degrees. Get it boiling and then let it set for a 20 seconds or so off the stove, that should be pretty close. If you’re a real fanatic, you can play with water between 195 and 205 degrees or so and see what works for you. I mainly just get the kettle to a good boil, then let it sit for a bit before pouring in.  Make sure you put your ground coffee into the filter just before your water is ready to go.

Pre-infusion and begin to brew – Once the water is at the correct temperature, measure it out the desired number of ounces and begin brewing immediately. Once you’ve done this a few times, you’ll probably be able to do it without measuring since you’ll know it by sight. Set timer for four minutes and hit start just as you pour the first water on your grounds. The first step in brewing is the pre-infusion step. You want to pour just enough water on the grounds to soak them all evenly and completely. This will cause your coffee grounds to bloom. Once the bloom has settled some, 30 seconds or so, pour the remainder of your water on to the grounds taking care to saturate all grounds evenly.

Continue brewing and draw down – Place the lid on the Clever as soon as all water has been added to the brewing chamber to keep heat in and help regulate the brewing temperature. Once the timer is down to about a minute, remove the lid and give the coffee a few gentle stirs so all of the grounds will be evenly extracted during the draw down. After you stir, replace the lid, pour any water that may still be in your mug from preheating out, then go ahead and put the Clever onto your mug (yes, we know the timer is not up yet). Placeing the Clever on top of your coffee mug automatically starts the drip going, so just let it run its course. This should take less than a minute, and if the grind is set right and everything has been timed correctly, the last of your coffee should leave the brew chamber just as your four minute timer expires.

Enjoy your coffee!!!

Clean up – Clean up is very easy with the Clever. Simply remove and dispose of the filter. Rinse the brewer with hot water, drain and repeat

We would love to hear all of your suggestions for brewing a better cup of coffee in the comments section below, as well as any Clever-specific methods you use at home.

The Eater Atlanta Cocktail HEAT MAP

Be sure to check out the hot-off-the-virtual-presses Eater Atlanta Cocktail Heat Map, penned by yours truly. It’s a selection of ten great places to grab a cocktail RIGHT NOW, this very instant, pronto, before they lose their impressive heads of steam. Alright, you can wait until next week, but don’t say I didn’t warn you.

And, by they way, Eater Atlanta is a great place to stay on top of all that’s going on in the world of Atlanta dining, including the ever important topic of Sh!t People Steal. We kid you not.